Some islands remain essentially unchanged. Serifos is one of them, a holiday destination for those looking for something above and beyond a glittery facade. The landscape here changes with the light. If you like rugged countryside, you’ll be impressed by the wonderful shapes nature has sculpted into the hillsides. In the port of Livadi, memories of older, more innocent times will come flooding back. You’ll fall in love with beaches with blue-green waters. And then there’s Hora, the island’s town, a vision in brilliant white cascading down a conical hill.
Take your pick: blue or green, shallow or deep waters, sand or pebbles, shaded or sun-drenched, blessed by a chapel or garnished with its very own taverna. Lia, Koutalas, Vagia, Ganema, Kalo Ambeli, Psili Ammos, Sykamia. You’ll need several summers to explore all 40 of Serifos’ officially recognised beaches – though the locals claim the number is actually 72 – unless you go by yacht.